• Keep grit off of the floor. Use dirt-trapping mats at exterior doors to help prevent dirt, grit, and sand from getting in.  Throw rugs are recommended just inside of entrances and on high traffic areas.

• Put fabric glides on the legs of your furniture; they allow furniture to be moved without scuffing the floor.  Clean and replace the glides as needed.

• Vacuum regularly, as often as you vacuum carpets.  A brush attachment works well.  Sweep or use a dust mop daily or as needed but do not use a household dust treatment as this may cause your floor to become slick, dull the finish, or interfere with re-coating.

• Wipe up food and other spills promptly with a dry cloth or paper towel.  Use a slightly moistened cloth for sticky spills if necessary.  Then wipe the floor dry with another cloth or paper towel.

• Keep high heels with protective cap missing or worn away exposing the steel support rod off of floors.  They will dent any floor surface, even concrete.

• Don’t damp mop on a weekly schedule; damp mop only as needed, i.e., when the floor is dirty.  Even then, cleaning on a spot basis is best.

Q: What does “screening a floor” mean?

A: Screening is a process by which the floor is abraded by a sander/buffer to allow for adhesion of the new coat of urethane finish.

Q: How often do you screen and coat a floor?

A: This depends on the amount of traffic the floor will receive.
We recommend 1 year after your new floor has been installed and every 3-5 years thereafter depending on traffic.  Screen and coat should be considered as preventative maintenance.  It is low cost, minimum dust, and can add years to your hardwood floor without major refinishing.

Q: Why am I getting cracks in my wood floor?

A: Cracks are a reaction to humidity or lack of it, and are happening constantly in your wood floors.  Tiny cracks between the edges of boards may appear when dry conditions are produced by your heating system.  Installing a humidifier can usually reduce this, but here in Wyoming with the consistently dry climate, this is not a necessity.

Q: Can I do anything about the squeaks in my floor?

A: There are few things that can be done to minimize squeaking in a hardwood floor without access to the underside of the floor.  The squeaking is usually caused by loose nails associated with previous installation technique.  Today’s installation techniques bring this to a minimum, but remember wood is a product of nature and is constantly changing with the environment.

Q: Can I put rugs on my hardwood floor?

A: Place throw rugs in entries, in front of kitchen sink, and other highly trafficked areas to avoid the accumulation of dirt.  Avoid rubber-backed rugs and move and rotate rugs on a routine basis to prevent discoloration of floors.  Newly installed floors should wait two weeks before rugs are put down, to allow curing time for the polyurethane finish.

Q: Is it true that cleaning with vinegar and water is best for hardwood floors?

A: Yes, as long as you follow this guideline: 1/4 cup to 1 gallon of warm water. Vinegar is acidifying and more is NOT better!!  More than 1/2 cup to a gallon of water will instantly dull your beautiful floor.

Certainly, some other companies can do the job.  Our difference is simple: You won’t find better trained, more experienced, skilled craftsmen who work with hardwood floors.  We’re driven to give you the absolute best hardwood flooring job possible. With the right care, the right wood, and the right flooring company, wood floors can last a lifetime.  Call us today for a free estimate on refinishing, new installation, or even repair of hardwood floors today! 

A Floor and More, LLC
473-1188